POSITANO, AMALFI COAST
It’s been two years since our trip to Positano, and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve wanted to go back. It's a dream place that doesn't feel real when you're there. From the first glimpses of the blue sea to the cliffside homes, Positano is truly captivating and beautiful. I don't think pictures can do it justice. You have to be there to experience it. I can’t tell you that I’ve seen much of the world, but Positano and Amalfi Coast is definitely going to be one of my favorite places. Truly unforgettable.
“How about Italy?"..."Sure, let's do it"
That is all it took and we were off.
We flew into Rome and rented a car and drove down to Amalfi. I think it was about a three-hour drive and so beautiful. Btw, if you're renting a car, I hope you're a good driver and know how manage tight streets and corners. These are not American roads or drivers ☺️. Another option is to fly into Naples and take the train, bus or ferry to Amalfi.
We decided to stay in Praiano vs Positano and I’ll explain later why.
Once we had arrived to Amalfi Coast, it was absolutely breathtaking. Every direction and angle you turned to, the views were out of this world!
WHERE TO STAY
There are a lot of hotels to chose from. It all depends on what location and view you prefer. Initially I was looking at hotels, but found renting Airbnb was a better option for us. We rented a villa through Airbnb. It was so lovely! It had all white furniture and walls with Mediterranean blue tile and little coastal touches, overlooking the beautiful sea; it was absolutely perfect and fitting for our stay! Our breakfast every morning was on the patio enjoying the stunning views while eating fresh market tomatoes, cheeses, meats and breads. I will remember those mornings forever. Pictured below is our villa..
We either took the bus or drove our rental to Positano, which was 10 mins from Praiano. Once we got to Positano, here came the never ending stairs!! Haha, I’m sure you’ve heard that’s the only way to get around in that little town! I think we ended up burning more calories than we were consuming! Positano is such a beautiful city! It is full of color, life, personality and tourists. Every home, building, walkway and alley was so beautiful and different in its own way.
BEACHES in Positano
There are two main beaches in Positano, Marina Grande which is quite busy and in the center of Positano and there is Fornillo Beach which is a little quieter and more local. I definitely recommend some swimming shoes while at the beach. It is all pebbles -- big pebbles -- and quite hard to walk on them, not to mention they get hot from the sun too! The chair rental at Marina Grande is between 10-12 Euros and Fornillo is 5-7 Euros per chair.
Amalfi Coast has some delicious seafood! Every restaurant we dined at, we always ordered some seafood to start with. Most restaurants have a plate with different assorted seafood. We had some delicious seafood at Puppeto Restaurant before we hit Fornillo beach.
The best pizza we had was at Ristorani Covo Dei Saraceni. It’s a hotel restaurant, but that was the best pizza we had there! We also had some delicious lemon sorbet that was in the lemon rind! There’s a stand on the beach and you must try!
One of the evenings we dined at La Sponda at Le Sirenuse. The food, the view, the atmosphere and the experience was phenomenal. We ordered all seafood and everything was exquisite; the oysters, the octopus, the fish. I’m dying to go back there! Be aware though, you have to book La Sponda in advance, at least two weeks before if you want to get in; and definitely be ready to splurge there.
Fresh markets are a must. They had the most amazing tomatoes and fruits! We made a stop at the fresh market daily and stocked up on fruits and tomatoes. They were nothing like we have here.
Why we decided to stay in Praiano vs Positano. While Positano is such a beautiful and dreamy place, it is also extremely touristy and crowded. In the city itself, you won’t find any locals unless they’re working at the hotel, restaurant or shops. It is so congested there.
upon arrival at Praiano
We met up with our AirBnB host in this spot.
Praiano was 10 mins away from Positano and we had the full local experience. While there were still hotels and travelers in Praiano too, it was incomparable to Positano. Our villa was located on the hills of Praiano plunging out to the sea with local neighbors. Personally, Praiano was an ideal place for us to stay to have an authentic feel for Amalfi, away from the crowds but still so close to the heart of Amalfi. Our host shared a lot of local information with us and it was such a treat. Every time we came back from Positano, it felt like we could breathe again. It was so much quieter, calmer, and easy going.
lounging on our terrace with an infinity sea...
BEACHES in Praiano
In Praiano we visited two beaches. Marina di Praia and Gavitella. Marina Di Praia is a small little beach with a few restaurants around. The view is amazing and you can rent umbrella chairs for 10 EU. You could also jump off the rocks and dock. The water is incredible here. It was a bit cold but once you’re in, you get used to it. I loved being able to float! That was my first floating experience and it was so memorable with the views!
These pictures below are MARINA DI PRAIA.
Gavitella is the only beach in Amalfi that is kissed by the sun until the sunset. It is pretty small and has a restaurant as well called Cala Gavitella Beach Club. The food was good and atmosphere lively. We knew the owner of the restaurant, so we had a few nice perks while lounging there. We jumped off the rocks and enjoyed our view of Positano there and the blue waters.
To get down to all beaches, you have to take the stairs down! A LOT OF STAIRS! At Marina Di Praia there is a restaurant called Onda Verde Restaurant. It’s part of the hotel overlooking the cliffside and the beach.. We had the most delicious risotto I’ve ever had! I still dream of eating that plate! It was a seafood risotto and the flavors were so pronounced. One of these days I'll have to recreate it.
the most incredible risotto of my life.
Stairs stairs stairs. They’re everywhere! So be prepared to walk a lot.
We dined at Kasai (in Praiano) every day. The food was tasty and service very pleasant. We made friends with the owner and servers and it was so bittersweet to say goodbye(they also own the restaurant Cala Gavitella Beach Club).
Taking a drive down Amalfi is a must and it is inevitable. It's the most beautiful drive I've seen.
We made a trip to Furore and Amalfi. Unfortunately, Fiordo di Furore was closed down, but it’s a breathtaking beach! It was closed down due to rocks falling off the cliffs and it was completely closed. Oh, how I wish we could have stayed and lounged all day there.
FIORDO DI FURORE
Cappuccinos and pastries are a must. Some of the best pastries I've had in my life were in Italy. Fresh, delicious and not overly sweet. Btw, their cappuccinos are not the same as American. We took those little "una cafe" breaks and they were so relaxing. Locals come in, drink their coffee standing and head out the door in just minutes.
Downside- The only thing I wasn’t fond of in Positano was the pasta. I was disappointed in every restaurant. I know! Unbelievable! I make my own pasta at home, so perhaps my standards are high? Don’t know what it was about pasta in Amalfi. Maybe next time…
I highly recommend renting a boat! You must see the coast from sea! It is absolutely breathtaking! We rented a boat on our last full day and we wished we had done that more than once! We were able to access beaches that were secluded and didn’t have any access but only by sea. They were out of this world beautiful. We rented the boat at Marina Di Praia. I think you can make reservations online, but it was no problem on the spot. Just make sure to book it a day ahead or in the a.m. if you want to go in the afternoon because they might book out for the day.
We definitely made sure to leave some places to see and visit for our future trip like Ravello, Capri, Path of the Gods, and a few other restaurants.
I honestly can’t wait to go back! It’ll be love all over again! Going back, we’ll be even more knowledgeable and experienced in everything around there, so I think were going to have even a more amazing time!
If you have any questions or would like to know anything else in more detail, please be sure to send me an email or comment below!
Thanks for reading! Ciao Ciao!